Last night a friend and I cracked open my last remaining bottle of Hamilton Russell Chardonnay from the 2003 vintage.  Its team-mates had been polished off during their glory years quite a while ago.  This was the one that had got away.  Having been disappointed in the past by some 2005 Pouilly Fuissés which didn’t last the course, Plan B was already chilling in the fridge.  I expected something faded and a bit sherry-like, but what a delightful surprise was in store.

Definitely a mature wine – the deep golden colour and hints of toffee, nuts and candied fruit on the nose give the game away a little – this wine is still in its prime: it’s poised, almost stately.  In the mouth it packs a punch: intense tropical flavours, a touch of nuttiness again, with a creamy, full texture, but not heavy, thanks to the core acidity which refreshes the palate on the finish and has kept the wine young.  This isn’t going to be everyone’s cup of tea, but I have a soft spot for big Chardonnays and this wine gave as much pleasure last night as it did the first day I tried it at the beautiful Walker Bay vineyard nearly 10 years ago.

Coincidentally, I was asked this week what is the ideal drinking window for white wine.  In most cases I’d say drink up.  Never one to follow my own advice though, I have far too many bottles lying unloved in the Eurocave or, even more disrespectfully, on the wine rack in the kitchen.  That’s the trouble, there’s always something new and more exciting to try and bottles can hang around hoping to be noticed for years until they are way past their best.  So thank you, HM03, you may have been scorned, but you had the class to make me fall in love with you all over again.

2011 vintage available at Majestic.  Also, try it at the Union Café in Marylebone.