Gin Lane comes to Hackney

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The Powder Keg Diplomacy team

But how much fun was Ginstock yesterday?  It had all the elements of a successful British summertime event: showery rain, wet feet, queues for the loos and lots of people just happy to be outside having fun.  It also says something about how popular gin has become once again that a festival held in its on honour was a complete sell out.

The format was straightforward: 10 different gin brands teaming up with the mixologists from 10 London bars, each coming up with a cocktail that would be voted on by the customers – a sort of Great British Cocktail Off.  It was a great way to showcase gin’s versatility and some adventurous mixology, with the ingredients stretching from Fino sherry and jasmine-infused tea to Blue Curaçao and pistachio.

Gin is made by re-distilling a neutral spirit in the presence of natural botanicals, the most important of which is juniper – this gives gin its signature flavour.  Other botanicals include citrus peel, coriander seeds, cinnamon, angelica, orris root, liquorice and cassia bark.  Each gin brand has its own distinct personality derived from the recipe of botanicals used and the extent to which they are allow to infuse their flavours into the base spirit.  The term “London Dry Gin” refers to a style of gin where no further flavours (say, cucumber or rose petal) are added following re-distillation.

I managed to sneak a quick taste of each gin alongside the cocktails (spitting after tasting, I hasten to add).  One bar didn’t have any shot glasses so offered to pour the gin straight into my mouth from the bottle – oh the shame of it!  I’m just glad my mother wasn’t there to witness…  Anyway, here are my thoughts on the gins on show:

Beefeater London Dry - one of the most citric gins, it’s zesty and spicy, with notes of bitter orange.  The brand could probably do with a revamp but the red-robed figure apparently plays well overseas.

Bombay Sapphire – delicate, ethereal and gently floral with hints of spices.  The botanicals infuse the vapours during distillation rather than being macerated in the base spirit.

Boodles London Dry – this was used in the winning cocktail devised by The Gilbert Scott (I think it was the pineapple juice that was a hit with the crowd).  The gin was recently re-released onto the UK market and is more woody and herbal with a lighter juniper flavour.

Martin Miller’s – classy stuff: pure, clean, perfumed and slightly fruity.  It has a lovely, long finish and is one of my favourite gins.

Opihr – a new brand from Greenalls which was only bottled for the first time last Thursday. It’s exotically spicy with overt flavours of cardamon, coriander and black pepper.

Plymouth – rich, rounded and fruity, this is old school, earthy gin made at the historic Black Friars Distillery in Plymouth following a long tradition and using water from Dartmoor.

Sipsmith London Dry – produced at an independent, west London distillery, this gin has the classic juniper and citrus flavours and is harmonious and balanced.

Tanqueray – sadly the stall had run out by the time we reached it, which is probably a good sign.  From memory, this is a powerful gin with pronounced rooty, citrus and violet aromas.

Warner Edwards – another new gin to the market made by an artisanal distiller based in Northamptonshire.  It’s very good – all sweet spices and juniper with great length on the palate.

Williams – rounded and creamy with a full, juniper-led flavour, this gin is unusual in that the base spirit is derived from cider apples.  At 48% abv, it has quite a fiery kick.

Wine Wonderland in Selfridges

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I was feeling a bit grumpy today for some reason, so decided to take myself off to Selfridges for a spot of retail therapy.  A couple of hours later and a few Pounds lighter (money-wise, sadly), everything was beginning to seem a lot rosier.  It was in this jolly frame of mind that I revisited the new wine shop in the basement and I was impressed…

I love the clean and easy-to-navigate lay out – way better that the old set-up on the ground floor.  Although the range might lack some depth given the space constraints, it makes up for this with great regional coverage.  The range on offer is eclectic (how about a trying a Franken Scheurebe perhaps?) so has lots to interest your average wine nerd, but there’s plenty to entice the flashier purchaser too, with separate rooms for fine wine and high-end Champagnes.  Also, what a fantastic range of spirits, apéritifs and digestifs.  This is the place to buy a gift or something impressive for a dinner party.

Three reasons to go:

  1. you can splurge on something new/interesting
  2. you can buy a single bottle of something you might otherwise have to buy a case of online
  3. you can try before you buy from the Enomatic machines

Three reasons to resist the urge to wander in:

  1. the mark-up (maybe not the place for a value purchase…)
  2. you will splurge on something new/interesting
  3. do you really want to carry bottles of wine down Oxford Street?

Finally a word on the Harry Gordon bar next door.  I confess I’m biased here as I was quite fond of the Wonder Bar on the ground floor with its mezzanine views.  The refit is smart but as I passed by, there looked to be more ambience in the nearby Nespresso concession.  Maybe I was just expecting too much on a Monday afternoon in my new-found jolly frame of mind…